Within Burgundy, qualitative differences between wines are ascribed to terroir, even though the relationships between the variables that constitute terroir are rarely articulated. The production of red Burgundy has been, and continues to be, deeply personalised, and terroir boundaries have relied upon human judgements of value and taste for their establishment; borrowing from Goethe, their existence is testament to the operation of a ‘tender empiricism’ across the centuries, rather than the pursuit of antecedently agreed criteria. Recent studies in viticulture have established how berry composition and morphology are influenced by a range of environmental factors, physical, chemical and biological and an understanding of these interactions further supports the attribution of terroir to the Grands Crus vineyards of the Côte de Nuits.
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