Prediction of Indoor Climbing Performance in Women Rock Climbers

• Autores: Christopher B. Wall, Joanna E. Starek, Steven J. Fleck, William C. Byrnes
• Localización: Journal of strength and conditioning research: the research journal of the NSCA, ISSN 1064-8011, Vol. 18, Nº. 1, 2004, págs. 77-83
• Idioma: inglés
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• Dialnet Métricas: 2 Citas
• Resumen

  • In an attempt to more clearly understand the strength characteristics of female rock climbers and whether those variables affect and predict climbing performance, 2 indoor climbing performance tests (route and bouldering) were compared to a series of muscular strength tests performed by moderate (n 5 6), intermediate (n 5 6), and expert (n 5 6) female rock climbers. Significant differences (p , 0.05) were found between the expert group and the moderate and intermediate groups for climbing specific hand strength, as well as 1-arm lock-off strength when expressed as a strength-to-weight ratio. Multiple correlations showed that these variables (r . 0.426) as well as a questionnaire of past climbing performance (r . 0.86) significantly correlated to the tests of indoor climbing performance. In conclusion, climbingspecific tests of hand strength and of one arm lock-off strength reliably and sensitively measured 2 significant variables in the performance of indoor rock climbing, and a questionnaire of past best performance may be an accurate tool for the prediction of indoor climbing performance.