Eating in Spain means, on the one hand, the Mediterranean diet, a shared practice spanning seven countries involving “eating together” as a foundation of cultural identity and social exchange so distinct that it has appeared on UNESCO’s list of intangible cultural heritage since 2013. On the other, the Asociación de Amigos de la Real Academia de Gastronomía’s website “Gastro Marca España,” frames eating in Spain as placing “nuestro país en la primera línea del panorama gastronómico global.” Institutionalized in the last decade, these two discourses – one oriented towards transnational Mediterranean commonalities across landscapes and tables and the other promoting Spanish eating as economic nationalism to a global marketplace – exemplify the disconnections and contradictions that characterize food as a category of meaning. This chapter offers a critical approach to food cultures as a praxis of cultural studies and demonstrates how cultural practices like foodwork are mediated by power.
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