Resumen de Variaciones morfológicas del perfil de playa como respuesta a las condiciones de oleaje y marea

Ana M. Bernabeu Tello, Raúl Medina Santamaría, César Vidal Pascual

• The 2-section equilibrium profile model relates the beach morphology to the sediment grain size and wave climate. The sediment grain size is constant in a beach, whilst the wave climate evolve along the year. These variations modify the adimensional fall velocity (Q = H/wT). This parameter is related to the beach morphology. This allows equilibrium profile prediction for every wave conditions.

  The tidal effect in the profile morphology has been studied using the modal tidal range. Its main influence is the elongation of the breaker profile. The bigger the tidal range, the longer the breaker profile.